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Remove all components from the package.
Prepare the chamber body and the rotary dial.
Gently lubricate the o-ring of the rotary dial with grease (e.g. silicone).
Push the rotary dial until it rests against the chamber body. This may require more force.
Disassemble your current chamber and remove its barrel.
Clean the barrel with a cleaning pad or a wipe.
Prepare a hop-up bucking and a tensioner (you can use the same parts or new ones).
Put the hop-up bucking on the barrel (pay attention to the stabilizing groove in the barrel—the elongated protrusion in the bucking is supposed to fit perfectly into it.
Lubricate the bucking gently with grease—just like when installing the rotary dial (you can use the same grease).
Spread the grease on the outer surface with your fingers, leaving a thin layer of grease.
Insert the bucking into the chamber with gentle back and forth movements until it rests on the bottom of the socket in the chamber.
In the final stage, make sure the bucking does not chafe against the tensioner window. If you are unable to get the barrel into place, carefully lubricate the bucking again and try once more. If the problem persists, try using other hop-up bucking because this one is too large in diameter.
Set the barrel straight in the chamber—with the incision on the barrel perfectly in the axis of symmetry of the chamber.
Install the barrel latch (this may require gently moving the barrel back and forth)—for bucking with a longer flange, (such as Maple Leaf) use a latch with a longitudinal incision.
If the latch is in place you will hear a distinct click.
Install the barrel sleeve.
Place the tensioner in the tensioner socket.
Place the nub in the guides—if using a standard tensioner, install the nub as shown. For FLAT/BRIDGE type tensioners with an enlarged window in the barrel, rotate the nub 180°.
Place the hop-up arm so that one end rests on the rotary dial and the other on the tensioner nub.
Screw in the mounting screw.
Check the rotary dial range and that everything has been installed straight. The nub is supposed to line up horizontally. If you see any deviation, correct the installation of the barrel and the bucking in the chamber.
Place some compression o-rings on the barrel.
Bring the barrel with the chamber to the front wall of the barrel. The distance between the barrel and the chamber should look more or less as in the photo below.
If too many o-rings have been used and in your replica the chamber sticks out more—remove one or more o-rings. Adjust the number of them so that it takes force to push the front pin in, and the chamber has no back and forth backlash. The number of o-rings may vary depending on the manufacturer of the replica.
If in your replica the chamber has a large deviation in axial alignment (sideways), then the stabilizing wings are too loose (this will vary depending on the manufacturer of the replica). To eliminate this backlash, use backlash erasing stickers. Cut them according to the drawing and then stick them on the surfaces of the wings.
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