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Please note that this is an outline User Manual – the full version will be available here 20 December 2023! |
General Information
Congratulations on your purchase of the new PULSAR D HPA Engine – it's the world's first dual solenoid valve closed-bolt ETU/FCU controlled HPA engine with optical sensors. Powered by the latest TITAN II Bluetooth® combined with HPA technology, you get absurd trigger response never before seen in airsoft. Achieve insane muzzle velocities ranging from 250 to 650 FPS and ROF from 1 to 40 RPS for CQB, assault rifles and sniper rifles. The closed-bolt system and innovative BB feed system guarantee you a stable and repeatable bullet trajectory even in AUTO mode – every time. Engine calibration has never been easier – PULSAR D with TITAN II Bluetooth® introduce an innovative automatic cycle synchronization system. The most advanced and user-friendly GCS app gives you access to numerous settings and configurations such as binary trigger, trigger sensitivity adjustment, ROF – live via Bluetooth®. You can even use remote shooting mode on your smartwatch. You now have the option to install the smallest and most advanced dual solenoid valve HPA engine in replicas where this was not previously possible due to engine size. Choose from one of the five included nozzles or use the standard AEG nozzle you have. Take your replica into the future!
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Device Structure
Nozzle
Nozzle guide
Poppet valvePoppet valve
Engine body
Tappet plate piston
Solenoid valves
Air hose
Tappet plate
M3 x 12
M3 x 6
Tappet plate spring
O-rings:
16x1.5 x1 O-ring 6x1 x 1
8x1 x2 O-ring 16x1.5 x 1
6x1 x1 O-ring 8x1 x 24x1 x1
O-ring
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4x1 x 1
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Installation of
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PULSAR D
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in the Gearbox
Introductory Information
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Caution |
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Caution |
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Get ready the replica where you will install be installing your PULSAR D engine.
Remove the gearbox shell from the replica.
Remove all components from the gearbox.
Thoroughly clean and degrease the gearbox shell as well as the middle gear – you are going to use it in a moment.
Prepare the parts that you will are going to use again when assembling the motorengine:
gearbox shell
trigger together with the spring
selector plate
middle gear.
Get familiar with the contents of the PULSAR D engine packaging and the contents of the manual.
Prepare the items for installation:
PULSAR D HPA engine
Air hose
TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA
Installation KitAccessory I/O cable for connecting the second solenoid
Installation kit
Install the bottom PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. The distance around the bearing should be symmetrical.
Place the wires as shown in the picture. Make sure that the wires do not obstruct the pin hole, the trigger sensor, and will not interfere with the trigger.
Screw the air hose connector into the engine body opposite above the valve. You can use a wrench or combination pliers to tighten it a little more. Place the pliers in the area highlighted green.
Connect the power supplies supply cable from the lower TITAN II Bluetooth® board to the lower solenoid valve.
Place the engine in the place of the cylinder so that it is pushed against the front wall of the gearbox. Check correct tappet plate installation.
Install the trigger and the top PCB of Connect the I/O accessory cable one side (multi-pin plug) to the top PCB of the TITAN II Bluetooth® – pay attention to the proper alignment of the plug with respect to the socket.
Bend the wires as shown in the photo.
For PULSAR D, this wire should be routed along the outer surface of the top PCB.
Install the trigger and the top PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. You will find the full TITAN II Bluetooth® manual here: https://help.gatee.eu/space/GHC/2873360445/User+Manual – TITAN+II+Bluetooth®+V2+gearbox+drop-in+FCU+mosfet+HPA.drop-in+FCU+mosfet+HPA.
Connect the other end terminated with a two-pin plug to the other – upper solenoid valve.
Position the engine in the place of the cylinder – it should be pushed against the front wall of the gearbox.
Install the middle gear and arrange the power supply cables and the air hose behind its axis as shown in the photo. This will prevent the air hose from colliding with the moving tappet plate and help organize the entire installation inside the gearbox.
Before closing the shell, make sure that the wires do not obstruct important openings.
Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before tightening is acceptable.
In a moment you will be installing the spring guide. To stabilize it, you can use a bumper from the cylinder head - this will prevent the guide from coming off during further installation. Alternatively, you can use insulating tape by wrapping an appropriate amount around the end of the spring guide.
Open the gearbox and place the spring guide in its slot.
Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before you have tightened it is acceptable.
Open the gearbox and place the spring guide in its slot. Consider adding a bumper when placing on the guide to stiffen it.
Consider leaving the middle gear to restrain the air pressure hose.
Close the gearbox and tighten it with screws.it is acceptable.
If you have an adjustable trigger, such as the Nova Trigger, you can now adjust its movement range of movement. This should be done before calibrating the trigger sensor.
Have the selector plate properly prepared by sticking the sticker from the installation kit labeled Selector Plate Sticker on it. Precision and accurate placement of the sticker on the plate is very important – see photo below:
Install the selector plate and other selector components if any.
Place the shell in the body of the replica.
Install the grip by previously putting the air hose through the hole where the motor gear was previously located.
Remove the adjustment screw from the motor cover.
Then put the air hose through the hole where the screw was and install the cover.
Installing the buffer tube guide
Using your finger or a tool of some kind, press the guide against the rear wall of the gearbox.
Gently tighten the guide screw so that the spring guide stays in place.
Tighten the screw of the buffer tube guide until you feel resistance.
At the end of the air hose, install the connector in the standard you will be using.
Install the upper part of the replica body including the barrel and chamberand chamber. Remember not to use a nozzle sleeve with PULSAR D.
Connect the battery and perform trigger and selector calibration using the GCS app.
Select PULSAR D from the list as the type of HPA engine used.
After each firmware update, restore the factory settings.
To reset the time settings restore the default settings.
Insert your magazine loaded with the BBs of the weight you’re going to be using.
Carry out FPS measurements using a chronograph.
If the results are stable, proceed with accuracy test – step 3038.
If you have encountered FPS spikes or results that are too low, then probably the gearbox has not been installed axially in the lower receiver. Go to point 3139.
Aim test – if the previous FPS measurements and now the accuracy test are satisfactory, then your replica is ready. If you have encountered problems at any of the previous stages, proceed to the next point.
Axial alignment is very important when building an HPA replica. HPA engines, especially those operating in an open-bolt system, are very sensitive to deviations from alignment.
If you have specialized knowledge of replica building, you can correct the gearbox deviation from the body axis yourself. Otherwise, it is best to have a reliable service technician align the replica
Using an inspection camera with a diameter of less than 6 mm is most effective in assessing the deviation from the axis.
Insert the camera through the barrel and bring it close to the hop-up bucking.
You should then see an image similar to one of the four situations.
The deviations shown above will result in a sudden change in the trajectory of the BB in the same direction as the deviation from the axis. Example: The BBs are drifted to the left – - the nozzle is moved more to the left. Solution – you need to move the front of the gearbox to the right, aiming at the centric location of the nozzle in relation to the hop-up bucking.
Right-left correction will be carried out with the help of the adjustment screws supplied with our gearbox, which should be screwed into these holes marked in the photo and with them change the position of the gearbox. You can secure these screws with thread glue or a specific number of washers. For other gearboxes that do not have such screws, you need to drill holes in the front part of the gearbox on both sides of it, thread these holes, and fasten the screws in them, which should be handled similarly to the case of the gearbox. Otherwise, if this is not an option for you, you can use spacers in the form of various materials.
You will carry out the top correction by shimming something under the gearbox in the area in front of the trigger or by collecting material from the surface in contact with the rear of the gearbox/rear of the replica body around the location of buffer tube guide.
You will make the bottom correction by shimming something on the surface in contact with the spring guide or collecting material from under the gearbox in the area in the front of the body.
In each replica, these values will vary and it may require many hours of correction to achieve perfect alignment of the replica. However, this will bring very good results in the form of stable FPS measurements and a repeatable BB trajectory, resulting in high accuracy.
If you overcome the problem and improve the axiality of your replica, it is ready for use.
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PULSAR D Engine Maintenance Manual
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