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Get ready the replica where you will be installing your PULSAR D engine.
Remove the gearbox shell from the replica.
Remove all components from the gearbox.
Thoroughly clean and degrease the gearbox shell as well as the middle gear – you are going to use it in a moment.
Prepare the parts that you are going to use again when assembling the engine:
gearbox shell
trigger together with the spring
selector plate
middle gear.
Get familiar with the contents of the PULSAR D engine packaging and the contents of the manual.
Prepare the items for installation:
PULSAR D HPA engine
Air hose
TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA
Accessory I/O cable for connecting the second solenoid
Installation kit
Install the bottom PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. The distance around the bearing should be symmetrical.
Place the wires as shown in the picture. Make sure that the wires do not obstruct the pin hole, the trigger sensor, and will not interfere with the trigger.
Screw the air hose connector into the engine body above the valve. You can use a wrench or combination pliers to tighten it a little more. Place the pliers in the area marked green.
Connect the power supply cable from the lower TITAN II Bluetooth® board to the lower solenoid valve.
Connect the I/O accessory cable one end (multi-pin plug) to the top PCB of the TITAN II Bluetooth® – pay attention to the proper alignment of the plug with respect to the socket.
Bend the wires as shown in the photo.
For PULSAR D, this wire should be routed along the outer surface of the top PCB.
Install the trigger and the top PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. You will find the full TITAN II Bluetooth® manual here: https://help.gatee.eu/space/GHC/2873360445/User+Manual – TITAN+II+Bluetooth®+V2+gearbox+drop-in+FCU+mosfet+HPA.
Connect the other end terminated with a two-pin plug to the other – upper solenoid valve.
Position the engine in the place of the cylinder – it should be pushed against the front wall of the gearbox.
Install the middle gear and arrange the power supply cables and the air hose behind its axis as shown in the photo. This will prevent the air hose from colliding with the moving tappet plate and help organize the entire installation inside the gearbox.
The new revision of the PULSAR D engine includes a dedicated shaft that holds the power cable replacing the middle gear.
Before closing the shell, make sure that the wires do not obstruct important openings.
Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before tightening is acceptable.
In a moment, you will be installing the spring guide. To stabilize it, you can use a bumper from the cylinder head - this will prevent the guide from coming off in the course of installation. Alternatively, you can use insulating tape by wrapping an appropriate amount around the end of the spring guide.
Open the gearbox and place the spring guide in its slot.
Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before you have tightened it is acceptable.
If you have an adjustable trigger, such as the Nova Trigger, you can now adjust its movement range. This should be done before calibrating the trigger sensor.
Have the selector plate properly prepared by sticking the sticker from the installation kit labeled Selector Plate Sticker on it. Precision and accurate placement of the sticker on the plate is very important – see photo below:
Install the selector plate and other selector components if any.
Place the shell in the body of the replica.
Install the grip by previously placing the air hose through the hole where the motor gear was previously located.
Remove the adjustment screw from the motor cover.
Then place the air hose through the hole where the screw was and install the cover.
Installing the buffer tube guide
Gently tighten the guide screw so that the spring guide stays in place.
Tighten the screw of the buffer tube guide until you feel resistance.
At the end of the air hose, install the connector in the standard you will be using.
Install the upper part of the replica body including the barrel and chamber. Remember not to use a nozzle sleeve with PULSAR D.
Connect the battery and perform trigger and selector calibration using the GCS app.
Select PULSAR D from the list as the type of HPA engine used.
After each firmware update, restore the factory settings.
To reset the time settings restore the default settings. They should go as follows, and in most replicas will be a good starting point for precise calibration. Before you do so, read the other points mentioned.
Calibration of HPA Engine Control Times
PULSAR D Engine Calibration
Insert your magazine loaded with the BBs of the weight you’re going to be using.
Carry out FPS measurements using a chronograph.
If the results are stable, proceed with accuracy test – step 38.
If you encounter FPS spikes or results that are too low, then probably the gearbox has not been installed axially in the lower receiver. Go to step 39.
Aim test – if the previous FPS measurements and now the accuracy test are satisfactory, then your replica is ready for precise calibration.
Go to PULSAR D Engine Calibration. If you have encountered problems at any of the previous stages, proceed to the next point.Axial alignment is very important when building an HPA replica. HPA engines, especially those operating in an open-bolt system, are very sensitive to deviations from alignment.
If you have specialized knowledge of replica building, you can correct the gearbox deviation from the body axis yourself. Otherwise, it is best to have a reliable service technician align the replica
Using an inspection camera with a diameter of less than 6 mm is most effective in assessing the deviation from the axis.
Insert the camera through the barrel and bring it close to the hop-up bucking.
You should then see an image similar to one of the four situations.
The deviations shown above will result in a sudden change in the trajectory of the BB in the same direction as the deviation from the axis. Example: The BBs are drifted to the left - the nozzle is moved more to the left. Solution – you need to move the front of the gearbox to the right, aiming at the centric location of the nozzle in relation to the hop-up bucking.
Right-left correction will be carried out with the help of the adjustment screws supplied with our gearbox, which should be screwed into these holes marked in the photo and with them change the position of the gearbox. You can secure these screws with thread glue or a specific number of washers. For other gearboxes that do not have such screws, you need to drill holes in the front part of the gearbox on both sides of it, thread these holes, and fasten the screws in them, which should be handled similarly to the case of the gearbox. Otherwise, if this is not an option for you, you can use spacers in the form of various materials.
You will carry out the top correction by shimming something under the gearbox in the area in front of the trigger or by collecting material from the surface in contact with the rear of the gearbox/rear of the replica body around the location of buffer tube guide.
You will make the bottom correction by shimming something on the surface in contact with the spring guide or collecting material from under the gearbox in the area in the front of the body.
In each replica, these values will vary and it may require many hours of correction to achieve perfect alignment of the replica. However, this will bring very good results in the form of stable FPS measurements and a repeatable BB trajectory, resulting in high accuracy.
If you overcome the problem and improve the axiality of your replica, you can go to precise engine calibration.
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Evaluate the state of wear of the o-rings and, if they are damaged, replace them with new ones (spare o-rings can be found in the kit – this does not apply to the solenoid valve washers). Carefully remove old o-rings and install new ones. Do not use sharp metal tools for this purpose, as they can damage the o-rings or aluminum surfaces of engine components. This may result in permanent damage, which is not covered by the warranty. If you have any doubts or problems, contact our technical support department. Each component is available as separate products for post-warranty support.
List of
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Tools
PULSAR D engine
Optional – spare o-rings included in the kit
Balystik Premium Grease – Pneumatic or Gun Sav grease from TechT (you can use other ones, but we do not guarantee ideal engine performance)
Clean, fine brush for applying the grease
Plastic tweezers for removing and installing the o-rings
A clean thicker brush for washing the parts
A degreasing agent for all components, such as petroleum ether (the agent must not damage the o-rings)
A container for washing the components
Paper towels
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Maintenance procedure
Have all the listed items ready.
Remove the air hose.
Remove the tappet plate spring.
Unscrew the screw securing the tappet plate.
Remove the tappet plate.
Remove the nozzle.
Gently unscrew the solenoid valves – be careful with the very delicate O-rings on the valve.
Using the dedicated wrench included in the kit or Seger-type safety pliers, unscrew the nozzle guide. The first engine release may not have had them included, but they are available in our store.
Using tweezers or a screwdriver, gently remove the poppet from inside the body.
Remove the tappet plate piston (you can use tweezers or a sharp knife for this, paying attention not to damage the piston).
Remove all the O-rings from the engine components except the solenoid valve (it is best to use plastic tools for this so as not to damage the aluminum surfaces of the engine – this is not covered by the warranty).
If the o-rings are not damaged, you can reuse them after cleaning them with a paper towel – it is best to avoid washing the o-rings with detergents.
If the o-rings are damaged or show signs of wear, replace them with new ones – included in the kit.
Place the engine components in a dish with petroleum ether (NOTE – does not apply to the solenoid valves. Avoid immersing them in cleaning agents).
Using a thicker brush and tweezers, thoroughly clean the engine components.
For solenoid valves, gently wipe the O-ring surfaces and remove visible dirt with a dry brush.
Set the washed parts aside on a paper towel to dry completely (you can speed up the process by blowing the parts with compressed air).
Reinstall the o-rings (you can lightly grease them before installation):
Install the o-rings according to the diagram below:
1 o-ring 16x1.5 mm and 1 o-ring 6x1 mm in the nozzle guide.
2 o-rings 8x1 mm for the poppet.
1 o-ring 4x1 mm for the tappet plate piston.
Prepare all parts with the O-rings installed, as well as grease and a smaller brush.
grease two places in the rear of the engine body:
The cylinder where the piston moves (take care not to grease the bottom of the cylinder).
Then the vertical surfaces of the cylinder where the poppet moves. Try not to grease the bottom of the cylinder. This can have a negative effect on engine performance.
Grease the o-ring on the piston and the piston.
Place the piston in its cylinder and collect excess grease.
Grease well the two o-rings in the nozzle guide (you can remove the excess with a paper towel).
In the poppet, also grease two places:
Both O-rings. As with the rear of the engine, be careful not to leave grease on the flat rear surface of the nozzle.
And the narrowed poppet surface.
Place the greased poppet in the inner part of the nozzle guide.
Then screw the nozzle guide into the engine body using a wrench or the aforementioned pliers.
Grease the nozzle guide.
Grease the nozzle from the inside in the o-ring area.
Install the nozzle on the guide.
Gently grease the thread and O-rings of the valve with a flat brush. Avoid getting grease into the moving parts of the valve.
Gently, while taking care of the solenoid valve's o-rings, screw it into the valve socket. Just do it with your bare hand, do not use tools for this.
Grease the surface over which the tappet plate moves.
Install the tappet plate. Press it well against the nozzle.
Secure the tappet plate with the screw. Tighten the screw until you feel resistance in the operation of the tappet plate and then loosen the screw so that the tappet plate can move freely and without resistance.
Install the tappet plate spring.
Screw on the air hose.
The engine is once again ready for use.
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