...
Have ready the replica in which you will install the PULSAR S engine.
Remove the gearbox shell from the replica.
Remove all components from the gearbox.
Thoroughly clean and degrease the gearbox shell.
Prepare the parts that you will use again when assembling the motor:
trigger together with the spring
selector plate.
Get familiar with the contents of the PULSAR S engine packaging and the contents of the manual.
Prepare the items for installation:
PULSAR S HPA engine
Air hose
TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA
Installation kit.
Install the bottom PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. The distance around the bearing should be symmetrical.
Place the wires as shown in the picture. Make sure that the wires do not obstruct the pin hole, the trigger sensor, and will not interfere with the trigger.
Screw the air hose connector into the engine body opposite the valve. You can use a wrench or pliers to tighten it a little more.
Connect the power supply to the valve.
Place the engine in the place of the cylinder so that it is pushed against the front wall of the gearbox.
Install the trigger and the top PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. You will find the full TITAN II Bluetooth® manual here: https://help.gatee.eu/space/GHC/2873360445/User+Manual—TITAN+II+Bluetooth®+V2+gearbox+drop-in+FCU+mosfet+HPA.
Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before you have tightened it is acceptable.
Open the gearbox and place the spring guide in its slot.
Close the gearbox and tighten it with screws.
If you have an adjustable trigger, such as the Nova Trigger, you can now adjust its range of movement. This should be done before calibrating the trigger sensor.
Have the selector plate properly prepared by sticking the sticker from the installation kit labeled Selector Plate Sticker on it. Precision and accurate placement of the sticker on the plate is very important - see photo below:
Install the selector plate and other selector components if any.
Place the shell in the body of the replica.
Install the grip by previously putting the air hose through the hole where the motor gear was previously located.
Remove the adjustment screw from the motor cover.
Then put the air hose through the hole where the screw was and install the cover.
Installing the buffer tube guide
Using your finger or a tool of some kind, press the guide against the rear wall of the gearbox.
Gently tighten the guide screw so that the spring guide stays in place.
Tighten the screw of the buffer tube guide until you feel resistance.
At the end of the air hose, install the connector in the standard you will be using.
Install the upper part of the replica body including the barrel and chamber.
Connect the battery and perform trigger and selector calibration using the GCS app.
Insert your magazine loaded with the BBs of the weight you’re going to be using.
Carry out FPS measurements using a chronograph.
If the results are stable, proceed with accuracy test - step 30.
If you have encountered FPS spikes or results that are too low, then probably the gearbox has not been installed axially in the lower receiver. Go to point 31.
Aim test - if the previous FPS measurements and now the accuracy test are satisfactory, then your replica is ready. If you have encountered problems at any of the previous stages, proceed to the next point.
Axial alignment
Axial alignment is very important when building an HPA replica. HPA engines, especially those operating in an open bolt system, are very sensitive to deviations from alignment.
If you have specialized knowledge of replica building, you can correct the gearbox deviation from the body axis yourself. Otherwise, it is best to have a reliable service technician align the replica.
Using an inspection camera with a diameter of less than 6 mm is most effective in assessing the deviation from the axis.
Insert the camera through the barrel and bring it close to the hop-up bucking.
You should then see an image similar to one of the four situations.
The deviations shown above will result in a sudden change in the trajectory of the BB in the same direction as the deviation from the axis.
Example: The BBs are drifted to the left – the nozzle is moved more to the left. Solution – you need to move the front of the gearbox to the right, aiming at the centric location of the nozzle in relation to the hop-up bucking. Alignment additionally should be checked with the nozzle in the front position (about 1 mm from the collar of the hop-up bucking).
When checking the alignment in the front position of the nozzle, you should also check the effect of a fully loaded magazine inserted on the alignment of the nozzle and the hop-up chamber (in some replicas, the pressure of the magazine and the BBs can cause the hop-up chamber to misalign in respect to the nozzle).
Right-left correction will be carried out with the help of the adjustment screws supplied with our gearbox, which should be screwed into these holes marked in the photo and with them change the position of the gearbox. You can secure these screws with thread glue or a specific number of washers. For other gearboxes that do not have such screws, you need to drill holes in the front part of the gearbox on both sides of it, thread these holes, and fasten the screws in them, which should be handled similarly to the case of the gearbox. Otherwise, if this is not an option for you, you can use spacers in the form of various materials.
You will carry out the top correction by placing shimming (green color on the model) under the gearbox in the area in front of the trigger.
In extreme cases, it may be necessary to get rid of the trigger pin or grind the body in the rear part where it meets the gearbox (red colored places).You will correct the bottom correction by using shimming (green color on the model) on the back of the gearbox.
In extreme cases, it may be necessary to abandon the trigger pin or grind the gearbox in the area in front of the trigger (red colored areas).In each replica, the shimming thicknesses will vary and it may require many hours of correction to achieve perfect alignment of the replica. However, this will bring very good results in the form of stable FPS measurements and a repeatable BB trajectory, resulting in high accuracy.
The correctness of the replica is also affected by the stability of the gearbox seating in the body. To check the replica in this regard, observe what happens to the nozzle (observing it through the barrel) when trying to manipulate the pistol grip right-left and back-and-forth. If the nozzle moves during this activity, the gearbox shell will require additional restraining. For this purpose, first of all, we recommend tightening the screw holding the buffer tube to the spring guide previously inserted in the gearbox (you can achieve stable placement of the spring guide in the gearbox by wrapping a thick layer of insulating tape over it).
The flange of the hop-up bucking, like the nozzle, must also be evenly aligned with the axis of the barrel. Any deformation of it or uneven alignment will directly affect the accuracy (e.g., a flange protruding from the right side, will drive the BBs to the right, a flange protruding from the top, may lead to unstable BB feed.
To improve flange alignment:
Tighten the hop-up bucking and try to install it again using silicone oil (be careful not to get oil on the surfaces in contact with the BB) and slow movement while sliding the barrel with the bucking into the hop-up chamber (you may have to do this several times).
If the flange gets misaligned each time, use different bucking, barrel or chamber.
If you overcome the problem and improve the axiality of your replica, it is ready for use.
User Manual—TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA
...