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Have all the listed items ready.
Remove the air hose.
Remove the tappet plate spring.
Unscrew the screw securing the tappet plate.
Remove the tappet plate.
Remove the nozzle.
Gently unscrew the solenoid valves – be careful with the very delicate O-rings on the valve.
Using the dedicated wrench included in the kit or Seger-type safety pliers, unscrew the nozzle guide. The first engine release may not have had them included, but they are available in our store.
Using tweezers or a screwdriver, gently remove the poppet from inside the body.
Remove the tappet plate piston (you can use tweezers or a sharp knife for this, paying attention not to damage the piston).
Remove all the O-rings from the engine components except the solenoid valve (it is best to use plastic tools for this so as not to damage the aluminum surfaces of the engine – this is not covered by the warranty).
If the o-rings are not damaged, you can reuse them after cleaning them with a paper towel – it is best to avoid washing the o-rings with detergents.
If the o-rings are damaged or show signs of wear, replace them with new ones – included in the kit.
Place the engine components in a dish with petroleum ether (NOTE – does not apply to the solenoid valves. Avoid immersing them in cleaning agents).
Using a thicker brush and tweezers, thoroughly clean the engine components.
For solenoid valves, gently wipe the O-ring surfaces and remove visible dirt with a dry brush.
Set the washed parts aside on a paper towel to dry completely (you can speed up the process by blowing the parts with compressed air).
Reinstall the o-rings (you can lightly grease them before installation):
Install the o-rings according to the diagram below:
1 o-ring 16x1.5 mm and 1 o-ring 6x1 mm in the nozzle guide.
2 o-rings 8x1 mm for the poppet.
1 o-ring 4x1 mm for the tappet plate piston.
Prepare all parts with the O-rings installed, as well as grease and a smaller brush.
grease two places in the rear of the engine body:
The cylinder where the piston moves (take care not to grease the bottom of the cylinder).
Then the vertical surfaces of the cylinder where the poppet moves. Try not to grease the bottom of the cylinder. This can have a negative effect on engine performance.
Grease the o-ring on the piston and the piston.
Place the piston in its cylinder and collect excess grease.
Grease well the two o-rings in the nozzle guide (you can remove the excess with a paper towel).
In the poppet, also grease two places:
Both O-rings. As with the rear of the engine, be careful not to leave grease on the flat rear surface of the nozzle.
And the narrowed poppet surface.
Place the greased poppet in the inner part of the nozzle guide.
Then screw the nozzle guide into the engine body using a wrench or the aforementioned pliers.
Grease the nozzle guide.
Grease the nozzle from the inside in the o-ring area.
Install the nozzle on the guide.
Gently grease the thread and O-rings of the valve with a flat brush. Avoid getting grease into the moving parts of the valve.
Gently, while taking care of the solenoid valve's o-rings, screw it into the valve socket. Just do it with your bare hand, do not use tools for this.
Grease the surface over which the tappet plate moves.
Install the tappet plate. Press it well against the nozzle.
Secure the tappet plate with the screw. Tighten the screw until you feel resistance in the operation of the tappet plate and then loosen the screw so that the tappet plate can move freely and without resistance.
Install the tappet plate spring.
Screw on the air hose.
The engine is once again ready for use.
Repair Kit
Use the repair kit if any of the o-rings are damaged/worn.
Contents:
O-ring 16x1.5 x1
O-ring 8x1 x2
O-ring 6x1 x1
O-ring 4x1 x1
Troubleshooting
Low FPS
Misaligned replica
Check the position of the nozzle relative to the barrel. To do this, we recommend using either an endoscopic camera or a flashlight.
| Warning |
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Warning |
If the nozzle is not in the center of the barrel, you need to do an adjustment of the gearbox position in the replica, as deviations from the axis can cause leaks.
Leak at the hop-up bucking/nozzle connection
Plug the barrel with your finger and fire one shot with the pressure connected in Single Solenoid Valve Engine mode. Make sure there is no bullet in the chamber and the magazine is not inserted. After firing, the nozzle should remain closed and pressure should remain in the barrel until you remove your finger from the barrel muzzle.
If you hear a hiss of air coming from the chamber, it means that the hop-up bucking is not properly sealing with the nozzle. In such a case, follow the steps below to see if they have solved the problem
Make sure the hop-up chamber is pressed against the face of the gear – we recommend using 8 x 1 mm o-rings placed on the barrel in front of the hop-up chamber.
Use a longer nozzle.
Use different hop-up bucking.
Bent air hose in gearbox
Open the gearbox and check if the air hose is bent/broke.
Connect pressure and check for air hissing around the hose. If so, tighten the air hose to the engine body.
Non-optimal engine settings in GCS
Restore the default settings of the HPA Engine.
Increase Main Valve Time.
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There is no nozzle cycle – TP NM warning pops up in GCS
Shots fired without pressure connected
If your replica fires correctly, you can either ignore the error or delete it by clearing the DTC.
If the problem persists, first check if the wires are connected in the correct order to the solenoid valves.
The engine works correctly from about 60-70 PSI. If there is no full nozzle cycle, you can increase the pressure on the regulator and reduce the nozzle cycle time. If this does not help, you can install a tappet plate spring with a smaller force.
Check for the correct connection of the solenoid valves' wires with the unit. Improper connection will result in incorrect operation of the nozzle.
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Poppet Replacement
What poppets are available?
There are three variants of poppets with different flow diameters:
ø2 mm
ø3 mm
ø4 mm
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How does a reduced-flow poppet work, and when should it be replaced?
A reduced-flow poppet limits the amount of air propelling the BB while maintaining the proper operating pressure of the PULSAR D engine. These poppets are ideal for replicas used in CQB games and in regions with very low FPS limits, even as low as 0.5 J.
Replacing the poppet is necessary when you need to reduce the replica's muzzle velocity but cannot do so because you have reached the lower operating pressure limit of the PULSAR D engine. Using a reduced-flow poppet allows you to increase the operating pressure while maintaining a lower power limit for the replica.
Which poppet should you choose?
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Poppet replacement and list of required components:
Selected poppet with the appropriate flow
| Tip |
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The PULSAR D engine comes with a ø4 mm poppet pre-installed. Available variants include:
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Clean, fine brush for applying grease
Tool for unscrewing the nozzle guide
Balystik Premium Grease – Pneumatic or Gun Sav by TechT
Optional tools and materials:
Paper towels
Clean, thicker brush for cleaning components
Container for cleaning parts
Plastic tweezers for removing and installing o-rings
Degreasing agent for all parts, e.g., extraction gasoline (must not damage o-rings)
Disassemble the PULSAR D engine from the replica.
Prepare the components shown in the photo.
Remove the tappet plate spring.
Unscrew the screw securing the tappet plate.
Remove the tappet plate.
Remove the nozzle.
Use the tool attached to the PULSAR D to unscrew the nozzle guide. If you don't have the tool, use circlip pliers or needle-nose pliers.
Using tweezers or the back end of a brush, gently remove the poppet from inside the body. Set the poppet aside.
Check if there is any debris on the engine and ensure it is properly lubricated. This is a good time to perform maintenance and lubricate the engine if necessary.
Check the visual condition of all seals and o-rings. If necessary, replace them with the ones included in the repair kit.
Prepare the new poppet for installation by applying a thin, even layer of grease. The areas to grease on the poppet are:
Both o-rings. Be careful not to leave any grease on the flat rear surface of the poppet.
The tapered surface of the poppet.
Lubricate the nozzle guide.
Place the lubricated poppet inside the inner part of the nozzle guide.
Screw the nozzle guide into the engine body using the tool.
Lubricate the inside of the nozzle where the o-ring is located.
Install the nozzle onto the nozzle guide.
Lubricate the surface where the tappet plate moves.
Install the tappet plate. Press it firmly against the nozzle.
Secure the tappet plate with the screw. Tighten the screw until you feel resistance from the tappet plate, then loosen the screw slightly so that the tappet plate can move freely without any obstruction.
Check if the tappet plate can move freely forward and backward. If necessary, tighten or loosen the screw to ensure smooth movement.
Install the tappet plate spring.
Screw in the air hose.
The engine is ready for reuse.
Repair Kit
Use the repair kit if any of the o-rings are damaged/worn.
Contents:
O-ring 16x1.5 x1
O-ring 8x1 x2
O-ring 6x1 x1
O-ring 4x1 x1
Troubleshooting
Low FPS
Misaligned replica
Check the position of the nozzle relative to the barrel. To do this, we recommend using either an endoscopic camera or a flashlight.
| Warning |
|---|
Warning |
If the nozzle is not in the center of the barrel, you need to do an adjustment of the gearbox position in the replica, as deviations from the axis can cause leaks.
Leak at the hop-up bucking/nozzle connection
Plug the barrel with your finger and fire one shot with the pressure connected in Single Solenoid Valve Engine mode. Make sure there is no bullet in the chamber and the magazine is not inserted. After firing, the nozzle should remain closed and pressure should remain in the barrel until you remove your finger from the barrel muzzle.
If you hear a hiss of air coming from the chamber, it means that the hop-up bucking is not properly sealing with the nozzle. In such a case, follow the steps below to see if they have solved the problem
Make sure the hop-up chamber is pressed against the face of the gear – we recommend using 8 x 1 mm o-rings placed on the barrel in front of the hop-up chamber.
Use a longer nozzle.
Use different hop-up bucking.
Bent air hose in gearbox
Open the gearbox and check if the air hose is bent/broke.
Connect pressure and check for air hissing around the hose. If so, tighten the air hose to the engine body.
Non-optimal engine settings in GCS
Restore the default settings of the HPA Engine.
Increase Main Valve Time.
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There is no nozzle cycle – TP NM warning pops up in GCS
Shots fired without pressure connected
If your replica fires correctly, you can either ignore the error or delete it by clearing the DTC.
If the problem persists, first check if the wires are connected in the correct order to the solenoid valves.
The engine works correctly from about 60-70 PSI. If there is no full nozzle cycle, you can increase the pressure on the regulator and reduce the nozzle cycle time. If this does not help, you can install a tappet plate spring with a smaller force.
Check for the correct connection of the solenoid valves' wires with the unit. Improper connection will result in incorrect operation of the nozzle.
Unstable FPS
Broken tappet plate spring
Replace the tappet plate spring.
Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox.
Open the gearbox.
Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate.
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
Hop-up bucking collar curls up
If you have an EON hop-up chamber, use an offset clip.
Use different hop-up bucking.
Use a shorter nozzle.
Sudden drop in replica accuracy – scattering of BBs
Broken tappet plate spring
Replace the tappet plate spring.
Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox.
Open the gearbox.
Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate.
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
Muffled firing sound – significantly different from the regular one
Broken tappet plate spring
Replace the tappet plate spring.
Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox.
Open the gearbox.
Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate.
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
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If you have an EON hop-up chamber, use an offset clip.
Use a different hop-up bucking.
Use a shorter nozzle.
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No BB feed
Broken tappet plate spring
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Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox.
Open the gearbox.
Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate.
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
Muffled firing sound – significantly different from the regular one
Broken tappet plate spring
Replace the tappet plate spring
Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox.
Open the gearbox.
Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate.
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
Hop-up bucking collar curls up
If you have an EON hop-up chamber, use an offset clip.
Use a different hop-up bucking.
Use a shorter nozzle.
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Excessively low operating pressure
In some cases, (e.g. because of low outside temperature or replacing the tappet plate spring with a harder one), it may be necessary to set a higher operating pressure, which will result in a higher firing rate. You will then need to shorten the Main Valve Time (DP) to achieve lower FPS. Follow these steps.
Increase the pressure on the regulator until the BBs are properly fed.
Decrease the Main Valve Time (DP) until the desired muzzle velocity is achieved.
Wrongly connected solenoid valves to the unit
Connect the wires to the unit according to the manual, paying special attention to the correct order of connection. Connecting them in reverse will result in incorrect operation of the nozzle and engine.
Nozzle does not return to the front position when it is depressed
Broken tappet plate spring
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Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox.
Open the gearbox.
Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate.
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
Excessively low operating pressure
In some cases, (e.g. because of low outside temperature or replacing the tappet plate spring with a harder one), it may be necessary to set a higher operating pressure, which will result in a higher firing rate. You will then need to shorten the Main Valve Time (DP) to achieve lower FPS. Follow these steps.
Increase the pressure on the regulator until the BBs are properly fed.
Decrease the Main Valve Time (DP) until the desired muzzle velocity is achieved.
Wrongly connected solenoid valves to the unit
Connect the wires to the unit according to the manual, paying special attention to the correct order of connection. Connecting them in reverse will result in incorrect operation of the nozzle and engine.
Nozzle does not return to the front position when it is depressed
Broken tappet plate spring
Replace the tappet plate spring.
Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox.
Open the gearbox.
Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate .
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
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tappet plate .
Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms.
Reassemble the gearbox and the replica.
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions
Which Hop-Up bucking should be used with the PULSAR D engine?
Everything always depends on the chamber, the power of the replica and the BBs used. In general, we recommend testing individually in your configuration, because there is no rule that any bucking will always work. From our experience, most often such as these work correctly:
Maple Leaf Mr. Hop (rubber version)
Madbull Blue
TNT Black with nub
Poseidon Air Cushion (after modification)
G&G green
4UAD 4UANTUM FRICTION PRO-HIGH
LayLax PROMETHEUS Straight Chamber Hop Up Bucking Soft (Blue)
others
We do not recommend using silicone Hop-Up buckings with PULSAR engines. Silicone buckings have lower resistance to friction and wear, causing them to wear out faster. Additionally, silicone tends to change its properties in extreme temperatures, which negatively affects the consistency of BB spin.
Which medium can I use for the power supply of the engine?
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What is the air hose thread?
M5 thread 0.8 mm pitch.
What is the nozzle length installed in the engine?
The PULSAR D engine comes factory-equipped with a 21.25 mm long nozzle.
Do all IGL air hoses fit the engine?
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How much maximum pressure can I set with the PULSAR D engine?
The engine is designed to operate with a maximum pressure of 140 PSI.
What regulators are compatible with PULSAR D?
PolarStar MRS
Redline SFR
Wolverine STORM
Which is the recommended hop-up bucking?
Everything always depends on the chamber, the power of the replica and the BBs used. In general, we recommend testing individually in your configuration, because there is no rule that any bucking will always work. From our experience, most often such as these work correctly:
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blue Madbull
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TNT
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is designed to operate with a maximum pressure of 140 PSI.
What regulators are compatible with PULSAR D?
PolarStar MRS
Redline SFR
Wolverine STORM
Fitting PULSAR D in a G&G Gearbox
Tappet plate needs modification
Modify the tappet plate as shown in the photos below.
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User Manual – TITAN II Bluetooth® EXPERT for V2 GB [HPA]
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