General Information

Congratulations on your purchase of the new PULSAR D HPA Engine – it's the world's first dual solenoid valve closed-bolt ETU/FCU controlled HPA engine with optical sensors. Powered by the latest TITAN II Bluetooth® combined with HPA technology, you get absurd trigger response never before seen in airsoft. Achieve insane muzzle velocities ranging from 250 to 650 FPS and ROF from 1 to 40 RPS for CQB, assault rifles and sniper rifles. The closed-bolt system and innovative BB feed system guarantee you a stable and repeatable bullet trajectory even in AUTO mode – every time. Engine calibration has never been easier – PULSAR D with TITAN II Bluetooth® introduce an innovative automatic cycle synchronization system. The most advanced and user-friendly GCS app gives you access to numerous settings and configurations such as binary trigger, trigger sensitivity adjustment, ROF – live via Bluetooth®. You can even use remote shooting mode on your smartwatch. You now have the option to install the smallest and most advanced dual solenoid valve HPA engine in replicas where this was not previously possible due to engine size. Choose from one of the five included nozzles or use the standard AEG nozzle you have. Take your replica into the future!

Device Structure

1. Nozzle

2. Nozzle guide

3. Poppet valve

4. Engine body

5. Tappet plate piston

6. Solenoid valves

7. Air hose

8. Tappet plate

9. M3 x 12

10. M3 x 6

11. Tappet plate spring

12. O-rings:

    • O-ring 6x1 x 1

    • O-ring 16x1.5 x 1

    • O-ring 8x1 x 2

    • O-ring 4x1 x 1

Installation of PULSAR D in the Gearbox

Introductory Information

Fitting the PULSAR D Engine in the Gearbox

1. Get ready the replica where you will be installing your PULSAR D engine.

   

    

2. Remove the gearbox shell from the replica.

   

    

3. Remove all components from the gearbox.

4. Thoroughly clean and degrease the gearbox shell as well as the middle gear – you are going to use it in a moment.

5. Prepare the parts that you are going to use again when assembling the engine:

   1. gearbox shell

   2. trigger together with the spring

   3. selector plate

   4. middle gear.

6. Get familiar with the contents of the PULSAR D engine packaging and the contents of the manual.

   

    

7. Prepare the items for installation:

   1. PULSAR D HPA engine

   2. Air hose

   3. TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA

   4. Accessory I/O cable for connecting the second solenoid

   5. Installation kit

      

       

8. Install the bottom PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. The distance around the bearing should be symmetrical.

   

    

9. Place the wires as shown in the picture. Make sure that the wires do not obstruct the pin hole, the trigger sensor, and will not interfere with the trigger.

   

    

10. Screw the air hose connector into the engine body above the valve. You can use a wrench or combination pliers to tighten it a little more. Place the pliers in the area marked green.

    

     

11. Connect the power supply cable from the lower TITAN II Bluetooth® board to the lower solenoid valve.

    

     

12. Connect the I/O accessory cable one end (multi-pin plug) to the top PCB of the TITAN II Bluetooth® – pay attention to the proper alignment of the plug with respect to the socket.

    

     

13. Bend the wires as shown in the photo.

    

     

14. For PULSAR D, this wire should be routed along the outer surface of the top PCB.

    

     

15. Install the trigger and the top PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. You will find the full TITAN II Bluetooth® manual here: https://help.gatee.eu/space/GHC/2873360445/User+Manual – TITAN+II+Bluetooth®+V2+gearbox+drop-in+FCU+mosfet+HPA.

    

     

16. Connect the other end terminated with a two-pin plug to the other – upper solenoid valve.

    

     

17. Position the engine in the place of the cylinder – it should be pushed against the front wall of the gearbox.

    

     

18. Install the middle gear and arrange the power supply cables and the air hose behind its axis as shown in the photo. This will prevent the air hose from colliding with the moving tappet plate and help organize the entire installation inside the gearbox.

    

     

19. Before closing the shell, make sure that the wires do not obstruct important openings.

    

     

20. Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before tightening is acceptable.

    

     

21. In a moment you will be installing the spring guide. To stabilize it, you can use a bumper from the cylinder head - this will prevent the guide from coming off during further installation. Alternatively, you can use insulating tape by wrapping an appropriate amount around the end of the spring guide.

    

     

22. Open the gearbox and place the spring guide in its slot.

    

     

23. Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before you have tightened it is acceptable.

    

     

24. If you have an adjustable trigger, such as the Nova Trigger, you can now adjust its movement range. This should be done before calibrating the trigger sensor.

    

     

25. Have the selector plate properly prepared by sticking the sticker from the installation kit labeled Selector Plate Sticker on it. Precision and accurate placement of the sticker on the plate is very important – see photo below:

    

     

26. Install the selector plate and other selector components if any.

    

     

27. Place the shell in the body of the replica.

28. Install the grip by previously placing the air hose through the hole where the motor gear was previously located.

    

     

29. Remove the adjustment screw from the motor cover.

    

     

30. Then place the air hose through the hole where the screw was and install the cover.

    

     

31. Installing the buffer tube guide

    1. Gently tighten the guide screw so that the spring guide stays in place.

    2. Tighten the screw of the buffer tube guide until you feel resistance.

        

32. At the end of the air hose, install the connector in the standard you will be using.

    

     

     

33. Install the upper part of the replica body including the barrel and chamber. Remember not to use a nozzle sleeve with PULSAR D.

34. Connect the battery and perform trigger and selector calibration using the GCS app.

    

     

35. Select PULSAR D from the list as the type of HPA engine used.

    1. After each firmware update, restore the factory settings.

    2. To reset the time settings restore the default settings.

36. Insert your magazine loaded with the BBs of the weight you’re going to be using.

37. Carry out FPS measurements using a chronograph.

    1. If the results are stable, proceed with accuracy test – step 38.

    2. If you encounter FPS spikes or results that are too low, then probably the gearbox has not been installed axially in the lower receiver. Go to step 39.

38. Aim test – if the previous FPS measurements and now the accuracy test are satisfactory, then your replica is ready. If you have encountered problems at any of the previous stages, proceed to the next point.

39. Axial alignment is very important when building an HPA replica. HPA engines, especially those operating in an open-bolt system, are very sensitive to deviations from alignment.

    1. If you have specialized knowledge of replica building, you can correct the gearbox deviation from the body axis yourself. Otherwise, it is best to have a reliable service technician align the replica

    2. Using an inspection camera with a diameter of less than 6 mm is most effective in assessing the deviation from the axis.

       1. Insert the camera through the barrel and bring it close to the hop-up bucking.

       2. You should then see an image similar to one of the four situations.

          

       3. The deviations shown above will result in a sudden change in the trajectory of the BB in the same direction as the deviation from the axis. Example: The BBs are drifted to the left - the nozzle is moved more to the left. Solution – you need to move the front of the gearbox to the right, aiming at the centric location of the nozzle in relation to the hop-up bucking.

       4. Right-left correction will be carried out with the help of the adjustment screws supplied with our gearbox, which should be screwed into these holes marked in the photo and with them change the position of the gearbox. You can secure these screws with thread glue or a specific number of washers. For other gearboxes that do not have such screws, you need to drill holes in the front part of the gearbox on both sides of it, thread these holes, and fasten the screws in them, which should be handled similarly to the case of the gearbox. Otherwise, if this is not an option for you, you can use spacers in the form of various materials.

          

           

       5. You will carry out the top correction by shimming something under the gearbox in the area in front of the trigger or by collecting material from the surface in contact with the rear of the gearbox/rear of the replica body around the location of buffer tube guide.

       6. You will make the bottom correction by shimming something on the surface in contact with the spring guide or collecting material from under the gearbox in the area in the front of the body.

       7. In each replica, these values will vary and it may require many hours of correction to achieve perfect alignment of the replica. However, this will bring very good results in the form of stable FPS measurements and a repeatable BB trajectory, resulting in high accuracy.

       8. If you overcome the problem and improve the axiality of your replica, it is ready for use. 

User Manual – TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA

PULSAR D Engine Maintenance Manual

The PULSAR D will require periodic cleaning and maintenance. The frequency of use of the replica and possible dirtiness of the entire system will define the intervals between these procedures. Carry out preventive cleaning once every six months, if you do not notice any incorrect operation before that. If the engine does not work properly, then immediately disassemble it (carefully remove the solenoid valve - its seals are very delicate) and wash it thoroughly, for example, with petroleum ether. This does not apply to the solenoid valve – clean the solenoid valve gently with dust-free paper.

Evaluate the state of wear of the o-rings and, if they are damaged, replace them with new ones (spare o-rings can be found in the kit – this does not apply to the solenoid valve washers). Carefully remove old o-rings and install new ones. Do not use sharp metal tools for this purpose, as they can damage the o-rings or aluminum surfaces of engine components. This may result in permanent damage, which is not covered by the warranty. If you have any doubts or problems, contact our technical support department. Each component is available as separate products for post-warranty support.

List of tools needed to perform PULSAR D maintenance

1. PULSAR D engine

   1. Optional – spare o-rings included in the kit

2. Balystik Premium Grease – Pneumatic or Gun Sav grease from TechT (you can use other ones, but we do not guarantee ideal engine performance)

   

3. Clean, fine brush for applying the grease

4. Plastic tweezers for removing and installing the o-rings

5. A clean thicker brush for washing the parts

6. A degreasing agent for all components, such as petroleum ether (the agent must not damage the o-rings)

7. A container for washing the components

8. Paper towels

To correctly perform maintenance on the PULSAR D engine, follow the steps below:

1. Have all the listed items ready.

   

2. Remove the air hose.

   

3. Remove the tappet plate spring.

   

4. Unscrew the screw securing the tappet plate.

   

5. Remove the tappet plate.

   

6. Remove the nozzle.

   

    

7. Gently unscrew the solenoid valves – be careful with the very delicate O-rings on the valve.

   

    

8. Using a wrench purchased from our store (available soon) or seger-type safety combination pliers, unscrew the nozzle guide.

   

    

9. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, gently remove the poppet from inside the body.

   

    

10. Remove the tappet plate piston (you can use tweezers or a sharp knife for this, paying attention not to damage the piston).

    

     

11. Remove all the O-rings from the engine components except the solenoid valve (it is best to use plastic tools for this so as not to damage the aluminum surfaces of the engine – this is not covered by the warranty).

    

     

    1. If the o-rings are not damaged, you can reuse them after cleaning them with a paper towel – it is best to avoid washing the o-rings with detergents.

       

        

    2. If the o-rings are damaged or show signs of wear, replace them with new ones – included in the kit.

       

        

12. Place the engine components in a dish with petroleum ether (NOTE – does not apply to the solenoid valves. Avoid immersing them in cleaning agents).

    

     

13. Using a thicker brush and tweezers, thoroughly clean the engine components.

    

     

14. For solenoid valves, gently wipe the O-ring surfaces and remove visible dirt with a dry brush.

    

     

15. Set the washed parts aside on a paper towel to dry completely (you can speed up the process by blowing the parts with compressed air).

    

     

16. Reinstall the o-rings (you can lightly grease them before installation):

    1. Install the o-rings according to the diagram below:

       

    2. 1 o-ring 16x1.5 mm and 1 o-ring 6x1 mm in the nozzle guide.

       

    3. 2 o-rings 8x1 mm for the poppet.

       

    4. 1 o-ring 4x1 mm for the tappet plate piston.

       

        

17. Prepare all parts with the O-rings installed, as well as grease and a smaller brush.

    

18. grease two places in the rear of the engine body:

    1. The cylinder where the piston moves (take care not to grease the bottom of the cylinder).

       

        

    2. Then the vertical surfaces of the cylinder where the poppet moves. Try not to grease the bottom of the cylinder. This can have a negative effect on engine performance.

       

        

19. Grease the o-ring on the piston and the piston.

    

     

20. Place the piston in its cylinder and collect excess grease.

    

     

21. Grease well the two o-rings in the nozzle guide (you can remove the excess with a paper towel).

    

     

22. In the poppet, also grease two places:

    1. Both O-rings. As with the rear of the engine, be careful not to leave grease on the flat rear surface of the nozzle.

       

        

    2. And the narrowed poppet surface.

       

        

23. Place the greased poppet in the inner part of the nozzle guide.

    

     

24. Then screw the nozzle guide into the engine body using a wrench or the aforementioned pliers.

    

     

25. Grease the nozzle guide.

    

     

26. Grease the nozzle from the inside in the o-ring area.

    

     

27. Install the nozzle on the guide.

    

     

28. Gently grease the thread and O-rings of the valve with a flat brush. Avoid getting grease into the moving parts of the valve.

    

     

29. Gently, while taking care of the solenoid valve's o-rings, screw it into the valve socket. Just do it with your bare hand, do not use tools for this.

    

     

30. Grease the surface over which the tappet plate moves.

    

     

31. Install the tappet plate. Press it well against the nozzle.

    

     

32. Secure the tappet plate with the screw. Tighten the screw until you feel resistance in the operation of the tappet plate and then loosen the screw so that the tappet plate can move freely and without resistance.

    

     

33. Install the tappet plate spring.

    

34. Screw on the air hose.

    

     

35. The engine is once again ready for use.

    

     

Repair Kit

Use the repair kit if any of the o-rings are damaged/worn.

Contents:

• O-ring 16x1.5 x1

• O-ring 8x1 x2

• O-ring 6x1 x1

• O-ring 4x1 x1

Troubleshooting 

Low FPS

Check:

1. hop-up bucking

2. hop-up chamber

3. HPA engine settings in the GCS application

There is no nozzle cycle

• If the replica is firing correctly but the TP NM error appears in the GCS application, it may be because shots were taken without connected pressure.

1. In such a case, you can either ignore the error or delete it by clearing the DTC.

2. If the problem persists, first check if the wires are connected in the correct order to the solenoid valves.

3. The engine works correctly from about 60-70 PSI. If there is no full nozzle cycle, you can increase the pressure on the regulator and reduce the nozzle cycle time. If this does not help, you can install a tappet plate spring with a smaller force.

Unstable FPS

• The tappet plate spring is broken

Replace the tappet plate spring

1. Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox

2. Open the gearbox

3. Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate

4. Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms

5. Reassemble the gearbox and the replica

Sudden scattering of BBs when previously everything was working correctly

• The tappet plate spring is broken

Replace the tappet plate spring

1. Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox

2. Open the gearbox

3. Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate

4. Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms

5. Reassemble the gearbox and the replica

Muffled firing sound – significantly different from the regular one

• The tappet plate spring is broken

Replace the tappet plate spring

1. Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox

2. Open the gearbox

3. Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate

4. Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms

5. Reassemble the gearbox and the replica

No BB feed

• The tappet plate spring is broken

Replace the tappet plate spring

1. Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox

2. Open the gearbox

3. Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate

4. Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms

5. Reassemble the gearbox and the replica

• Excessively low operating pressure

In some cases, (e.g. because of low outside temperature or replacing the tappet plate spring with a harder one), it may be necessary to set a higher operating pressure, which will result in a higher firing rate. You will then need to shorten the Main Valve Time (DP) to achieve lower FPS. Follow these steps:

1. increase the pressure on the regulator until the BBs are properly fed

2. decrease the Main Valve Time (DP) until the desired muzzle velocity is achieved

Nozzle does not return to the front position when it is depressed

• The tappet plate spring is broken

Replace the tappet plate spring

1. Disassemble the replica and remove the gearbox

2. Open the gearbox

3. Remove the damaged tappet plate spring and make sure that no part of it is left in the gearbox – a part of the spring left behind may cause malfunction of the tappet plate

4. Install a standard nozzle tappet plate spring from an AEG replica – we suggest using soft springs e.g. Retro Arms

5. Reassemble the gearbox and the replica

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

Which medium can I use for the power supply of the engine?

You can safely use high pressure air. Bear in mind the use of CO2 may cause permanent damage to the device, which is not covered by the warranty.

What thread for the power line?

M5 thread 0.8 mm pitch.

Are there IGL lines available for the engine?

Probably not, all engines on the market have inch threads. Our line is robust enough due to the fact that a bolt-on threaded end has been used in it, and there is no need to replace it with IGL, as with other engines.

Is the PULSAR D engine closed-bolt or open-bolt?

The PULSAR D is a dual solenoid valve engine and operates in a closed-bolt system, and optionally in an open-bolt system.

How much maximum pressure can I set with the PULSAR D engine

The engine is designed to operate with a maximum pressure of 140 PSI.

What regulators are compatible with PULSAR D?

PolarStar MRS

Redline SFR

Wolverine STORM

Which is the recommended hop-up bucking?

Everything always depends on the chamber, the power of the replica and the BBs used. In general, we recommend testing individually in your configuration, because there is no rule that any bucking will always work. From our experience, most often these work correctly as:

• blue Madbull

• TNT

• Poseidon Air Cushion (after modification)

User Manual – TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA

Technical Specifications

The design and production of the device is based on harmonized standards.

Stay tuned with GATE

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