General Information

Congratulations on your PULSAR S HPA Engine—the first in the world HPA engine controlled by an FCU with optical sensors. Thanks to the newest flagship TITAN II Bluetooth® in tandem with HPA technology you get a ludicrous trigger response, unknown before in the airsoft world. With the user-friendly GCS App for smartphones, you can manage your settings live, even straight from the field! Set the fire selector modes, trigger sensitivity, ROF or connect smartwatch in order to know how many BBs are still left in your magazine. Finally, the GATE technology breaks into the world of HPA replicas. Take your replica into the future!

Device Structure

1. Nozzle

2. Engine Front

3. Engine Body

4. Solenoid Valve

5. Air Hose

6. O-Rings:

   • 7x1 mm o-ring x 2

   • 8x1 mm o-ring x 2

   • 20x1 mm o-ring

Installation of PULSAR S in the Gearbox

Introductory Information

Fitting the PULSAR S Engine in the Gearbox

1. Have ready the replica in which you will install the PULSAR S engine.

   

2. Remove the gearbox shell from the replica.

   

   

3. Remove all components from the gearbox.

4. Thoroughly clean and degrease the gearbox shell.

5. Prepare the parts that you will use again when assembling the motor:

   1. trigger together with the spring

   2. selector plate.

6. Get familiar with the contents of the PULSAR S engine packaging and the contents of the manual.

   

7. Prepare the items for installation:

   1. PULSAR S HPA engine

   2. Air hose

   3. TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA

   4. Installation kit.

      

8. Install the bottom PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. The distance around the bearing should be symmetrical.

   

9. Place the wires as shown in the picture. Make sure that the wires do not obstruct the pin hole, the trigger sensor, and will not interfere with the trigger.

   

10. Screw the air hose connector into the engine body opposite the valve. You can use a wrench or pliers to tighten it a little more.

    

11. Connect the power supply to the valve.

    

12. Place the engine in the place of the cylinder so that it is pushed against the front wall of the gearbox.

    

13. Install the trigger and the top PCB of TITAN II Bluetooth®. You will find the full TITAN II Bluetooth® manual here: https://help.gatee.eu/space/GHC/2873360445/User+Manual—TITAN+II+Bluetooth®+V2+gearbox+drop-in+FCU+mosfet+HPA.

    

14. Close the gearbox shell and check that it closes evenly (do not tighten the screws). A slight gap before you have tightened it is acceptable.

    

15. Open the gearbox and place the spring guide in its slot.

    

16. Close the gearbox and tighten it with screws.

17. If you have an adjustable trigger, such as the Nova Trigger, you can now adjust its range of movement. This should be done before calibrating the trigger sensor.

    

18. Have the selector plate properly prepared by sticking the sticker from the installation kit labeled Selector Plate Sticker on it. Precision and accurate placement of the sticker on the plate is very important - see photo below:

    

19. Install the selector plate and other selector components if any.

    

20. Place the shell in the body of the replica.

21. Install the grip by previously putting the air hose through the hole where the motor gear was previously located.

    

22. Remove the adjustment screw from the motor cover.

    

23. Then put the air hose through the hole where the screw was and install the cover.

    

24. Installing the buffer tube guide

    1. Using your finger or a tool of some kind, press the guide against the rear wall of the gearbox.

       

    2. Gently tighten the guide screw so that the spring guide stays in place.

    3. Tighten the screw of the buffer tube guide until you feel resistance.

       

25. At the end of the air hose, install the connector in the standard you will be using.

    

26. Install the upper part of the replica body including the barrel and chamber.

27. Connect the battery and perform trigger and selector calibration using the GCS app.

    

28. Insert your magazine loaded with the BBs of the weight you’re going to be using.

29. Carry out FPS measurements using a chronograph.

    1. If the results are stable, proceed with accuracy test - step 30.

    2. If you have encountered FPS spikes or results that are too low, then probably the gearbox has not been installed axially in the lower receiver. Go to point 31.

30. Aim test - if the previous FPS measurements and now the accuracy test are satisfactory, then your replica is ready. If you have encountered problems at any of the previous stages, proceed to the next point.

31. Axial alignment is very important when building an HPA replica. HPA engines, especially those operating in an open bolt system, are very sensitive to deviations from alignment.

    1. If you have specialized knowledge of replica building, you can correct the gearbox deviation from the body axis yourself. Otherwise, it is best to have a reliable service technician align the replica.

    2. Using an inspection camera with a diameter of less than 6 mm is most effective in assessing the deviation from the axis.

       1. Insert the camera through the barrel and bring it close to the hop-up bucking.

       2. You should then see an image similar to one of the four situations.

          

       3. The deviations shown above will result in a sudden change in the trajectory of the BB in the same direction as the deviation from the axis.

          • Example: The BBs are drifted to the left – the nozzle is moved more to the left. Solution – you need to move the front of the gearbox to the right, aiming at the centric location of the nozzle in relation to the hop-up bucking. Alignment additionally should be checked with the nozzle in the front position (about 1 mm from the collar of the hop-up bucking).
            When checking the alignment in the front position of the nozzle, you should also check the effect of a fully loaded magazine inserted on the alignment of the nozzle and the hop-up chamber (in some replicas, the pressure of the magazine and the BBs can cause the hop-up chamber to misalign in respect to the nozzle).

       4. Right-left correction will be carried out with the help of the adjustment screws supplied with our gearbox, which should be screwed into these holes marked in the photo and with them change the position of the gearbox. You can secure these screws with thread glue or a specific number of washers. For other gearboxes that do not have such screws, you need to drill holes in the front part of the gearbox on both sides of it, thread these holes, and fasten the screws in them, which should be handled similarly to the case of the gearbox. Otherwise, if this is not an option for you, you can use spacers in the form of various materials.

          

       5. You will carry out the top correction by placing shimming (green color on the model) under the gearbox in the area in front of the trigger.
          In extreme cases, it may be necessary to get rid of the trigger pin or grind the body in the rear part where it meets the gearbox (red colored places).
          

          

       6. You will correct the bottom correction by using shimming (green color on the model) on the back of the gearbox.
          In extreme cases, it may be necessary to abandon the trigger pin or grind the gearbox in the area in front of the trigger (red colored areas).
          

          

          
          

       7. In each replica, the shimming thicknesses will vary and it may require many hours of correction to achieve perfect alignment of the replica. However, this will bring very good results in the form of stable FPS measurements and a repeatable BB trajectory, resulting in high accuracy.

    3. The correctness of the replica is also affected by the stability of the gearbox seating in the body. To check the replica in this regard, observe what happens to the nozzle (observing it through the barrel) when trying to manipulate the pistol grip right-left and back-and-forth. If the nozzle moves during this activity, the gearbox shell will require additional restraining. For this purpose, first of all, we recommend tightening the screw holding the buffer tube to the spring guide previously inserted in the gearbox (you can achieve stable placement of the spring guide in the gearbox by wrapping a thick layer of insulating tape over it).

    4. The flange of the hop-up bucking, like the nozzle, must also be evenly aligned with the axis of the barrel. Any deformation of it or uneven alignment will directly affect the accuracy (e.g., a flange protruding from the right side, will drive the BBs to the right, a flange protruding from the top, may lead to unstable BB feed.

    5. To improve flange alignment:

       1. Tighten the hop-up bucking and try to install it again using silicone oil (be careful not to get oil on the surfaces in contact with the BB) and slow movement while sliding the barrel with the bucking into the hop-up chamber (you may have to do this several times).

       2. If the flange gets misaligned each time, use different bucking, barrel or chamber.
          

          

       3. If you overcome the problem and improve the axiality of your replica, it is ready for use. 

User Manual—TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA

PULSAR S Engine Maintenance Manual

The PULSAR S will require periodic cleaning and maintenance. The frequency of use of the replica and possible dirtiness of the entire system will define the intervals between these procedures. Carry out preventive cleaning once every six months, if you do not notice any incorrect operation before that. If the engine does not work properly, then immediately disassemble it (carefully remove the solenoid valve - its seals are very delicate) and wash it thoroughly, for example, with petroleum ether. This does not apply to the solenoid valve - clean the solenoid valve gently with paper.

Evaluate the state of wear of the o-rings and, if they are damaged, replace them with new ones (spare o-rings can be found in the kit - this does not apply to the solenoid valve washers). Carefully remove old o-rings and install new ones. Do not use sharp metal tools for this purpose, which can damage the o-rings or aluminum surfaces of engine components. This may result in permanent damage, which is not covered by the warranty. If you have any doubts or problems, contact our technical support department. Each component is available as separate products for post-warranty support.

List of tools needed to perform maintenance on the PULSAR S:

1. PULSAR S engine

   1. Optional - spare o-rings included in the kit

2. Gun Sav grease from TechT (you can use another one, but we do not guarantee perfect engine performance then)

   

3. Clean, fine brush for applying the grease

4. Plastic tweezers for removing and installing the o-rings

5. A clean thicker brush for washing the parts

6. A degreasing agent for all components, such as petroleum ether (the agent must not damage the o-rings)

7. A container for washing the components

8. Paper towels

To correctly perform maintenance on the PULSAR S engine, follow the steps below:

1. Have all the listed items ready.

   

2. Remove the air hose.

   

3. Unscrew the front of the engine.

   

4. Remove the nozzle from the engine body.

   

5. Gently unscrew the valve (be careful of the very delicate O-rings on the valve).

   

6. Remove all the o-rings from the engine components except the valve (it is best to use plastic tools for this so as not to damage the aluminum surfaces of the engine - this is not covered by the warranty).

   

   

   

   1. If the o-rings are not damaged, you can reuse them after cleaning them with a paper towel (it is best to avoid washing the o-rings with detergents).

      

   2. If the o-rings are damaged or show signs of wear, replace them with new ones - included in the kit.

      

7. Place the engine components in a dish with petroleum ether (NOTE - does not apply to the valve. Avoid immersing it in cleaning agents).

   

8. Using a thicker brush and tweezers, thoroughly clean the engine components.

   

   

   

9. Wipe the o-ring surfaces gently and remove visible dirt with a dry brush.

   

10. Set the washed parts aside on a paper towel to dry completely (you can speed up the process by blowing the parts with compressed air).

    

11. Prepare the kit for reassembly.

    

12. Reinstall the O-rings (you can gently grease them before installation):

    1. 2 pieces of 7x1 mm in the front of the engine.

       

    2. 2 pieces of 8x1 mm on the nozzle.

       

    3. 1 piece 20x1 mm for the engine body.

       

13. Prepare all parts with the o-rings installed, as well as grease and a smaller brush.

    

14. Grease well the two o-rings in the front of the engine (you can remove the excess with a paper towel).

    

15. In the rear of the engine body, grease two places:

    1. O-ring and thread.

       

    2. Then the vertical surfaces of the cylinder where the nozzle moves. Try not to lubricate the bottom of the cylinder. This can have a negative effect on the operation of the engine.

       

16. We also lubricate two places in the nozzle:

    1. Both O-rings. As with the engine body, be careful not to leave grease on the flat rear surface of the nozzle.

       

       

    2. And the narrowed surface of the nozzle. There may be more grease here.

       

       

17. Place the greased nozzle in the engine body.

    

18. Then screw the engine front (excess grease may collect on the nozzle - remove it with a paper towel).

    

    

19. With the flat surface of a brush, gently grease the threads and o-rings of the valve. Avoid getting grease into the moving parts of the valve.

    

    

20. Gently, being careful of the valve's o-rings, screw the valve into the valve socket. It is enough to do this with your bare hand, do not use tools for this.

    

21. Screw on the air hose.

    

22. The engine is ready to be used again.

    

Repair Kit

Use the repair kit if any of the o-rings are damaged/worn.

Contents:

1 x 20 x 1 mm o-ring

2 x 8 x 1 mm o-ring

2 x 7x 1 mm o-ring

Troubleshooting 

Which medium can I use for the power supply of the engine?

You can safely use high pressure air. Bear in mind the use of CO2 may cause permanent damage to the device, which is not covered by the warranty.

What thread for the power line?

M5 thread 0.8 mm pitch.

Are there IGL lines available for the engine?

Probably not, all engines on the market have inch threads. Our line is robust enough due to the fact that a bolt-on threaded end has been used in it, and there is no need to replace it with IGL, as with other engines.

Is the PULSAR S engine close or open bolt?

The PULSAR S is a single solenoid valve engine and operates on an open-bolt system.

How much maximum pressure can I set with the PULSAR S engine

The engine is designed to operate with a maximum pressure of 140 PSI.

I have a problem with low FPS

The first thing to check is:

• the hop-up bucking

• the hop-up chamber

• the HPA engine settings in the GCS application
  

What regulators are compatible with the PULSAR S?

PolarStar MRS

Redline SFR

Wolverine STORM

What to do if there is no nozzle cycle?

Take the engine apart and check for excess grease - on the flat surface of the nozzle and the bottom of the cylinder in which it moves.

Muzzle Velocity [FPS] depending on Pressure [PSI]

Below are the muzzle velocities obtained depending on the pressure set, measured with 200 mm, 300 mm , and 500 mm barrels.
Measurements were carried out with BBs on weighing – 0.25 g.

200 mm Barrel

300 mm Barrel

500 mm Barrel

PULSAR S Nozzle Diameter Issue

Please be informed that in September 2023, some batches of PULSAR S NOZZLES were manufactured with diameters slightly below tolerance. A nozzle with such a diameter may cause air leakage and midcap syndrome.

How to check if your nozzle is defective:

1. Lift the nozzle. If after lifting the nozzle, there is air leakage – the nozzle’s diameter is below tolerance.

2. Measure the nozzle diameter with calipers – it should be at least 6.89/6.90 mm. If the diameter is smaller than 6.89/6.90 mm – the nozzle’s diameter is below tolerance.

If despite the slightly smaller diameter you have not observed air leakage or midcap syndrome, there’s no need to replace the nozzle.

If you notice air leakage or midcap syndrome, please contact us via GATE Help Center and we will send you a new nozzle with the correct diameter free of charge.

If your PULSAR S nozzle is of the correct diameter, please disregard this message.

Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience.

User Manual—TITAN II Bluetooth® V2 gearbox drop-in FCU mosfet HPA

Technical Specifications

The design and production of the device is based on harmonized standards.

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email: office@gatee.eu
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